images and text: @hamburg_citylife
After witnessing the Antonio Marras Fall Winter 2017-18 collection I understood why the Renaissance started in Italy: I was delighted by an explosion of colors, materials and style. These clothes are definitely not made for shy people and they absolutely mirror the Italian spirit: passionate, creative, flamboyant, idiosyncratic, hedonistic, anarchist, indolent, decadent, extroverted, self-possessed and yet all cheerful, tongue-and-cheek. You think it’s too much at once and I exaggerate? Take a look below:
There are no taboos; everything is mixed and fused together and – somehow – it fits: pretentious velvet with chiffon, embroidery with prints, 19th century design with lace see-through, asymmetry built into materials, patterns and geometry. It is the pure chaos, yet it works! It draws your attention, you start looking and marvelling at the details and can’t stop wondering how on Earth they pulled it off. The whole collection flirts with kitsch yet never once crosses that line.
The style swings between sweet, clean-cut downright innocent all the way to indecent diva. One could argue both next two pieces share embroidery – yet they are nothing alike, couldn’t be more different and yet here they are:
Looking to combine a wool jacket with embroideries, asymmetric patterns in warm orange nuances with a lace see through skirt? There you go:
Or are you into the market for a luxurious winter coat draped with fur inserts and adorned with a matching head cover? Look no further. This piece could even pass as classic – but it is the hat and the gorgeous fur that will make you shine.
And speaking of hats, how about a chiffon outfit gorgeously draped in autumn colours and turned into an work of art by a (simple) black ribbon?
You would have to be pretty brave to wear this (it is after all supposed to be autumn-winter) and yet black has usually been the colour of choice for designers looking to highlight the seductive energy of beautiful women around the world. The embroideries in cobalt colour over black background give it an exquisite look and instantly draw your attention. Only then do you notice she actually wears a wool coat. Houdini couldn’t have designed it better!
It’s time for a break from so much passion and raw seduction. The next outfit combines a woollen coat (that is the same time embroidered as well as patched with different patterns and motives) with a chiffon dress. Both the embroidery on the coat and the pattern printed on the dress complement each other through floral motives. The yellow ribbon closing the coat shines as gold, because…. why not?
Next there is another composition ridiculously oversized woollen pullover and patterned plied skirt. Both patterns are quite conservative yet the luxurious and generous embroideries on the pullover as well as the red-hot velvet socks make this outfit catwalk worthy. Did I mention the embroidered slippers and uncovered toes? Now I did!
At the opposite spectrum here is a rather conservative design. It mixes lace on the shoulders, and two completely different patterns. All embellished with a huge belt buckle.
Here a final peak at the torrent of materials, colours, patterns and embroideries that Antonio Marras unleashed upon his audience:
It was a spectacular show, the models felt alive – running and kicking even! The theme was somewhat melancholic and paired with classical tango music. The end was an explosion of youthful joy and playful energy. Did you expect anything less?